One of the reasons that I like watches so much, is that I appreciate machines, or devices otherwise, that are well engineered to perform some task (well), no matter how simple. This is why we have love for sports cars, high-end audio and visual equipment, and countless other "devices;" because we appreciate the fact that they do what they were designed to do so well. For many of us, it is a life long appreciation of fine engineering.
In regard to watches, I appreciate function over form almost all of the time. That is not to say I will fawn over an ugly watches, but I will always find beauty in mechanical perfection. Conversely, when a watch focuses on looks to an extent it impedes or negatively effects function, I find the value lacking. So what is the result when a watch focuses on looks over function, to an extent that is almost silly? Honestly? I get angry.
I really liked the looks of the new Hamilton Below Zero watch series. I wrote about the three hand Below Zero model when it came out, and the Below Zero Chronograph. I realized that watch had potential based on the looks, but that is not all there is too it. A watch is meant to do something, not just simply look good. So living with the Hamilton Below Zero should mean that you can fully utilize its functions. At least that is what I thought.
Recently I had an opportunity to play with both the three hand and chronograph Below Zero models. The watch is nice and large, and looks rugged and stylish on the wrist, especially the three hand model. Hamilton is owned by the Swatch Group, and is really their "entry-level" nice watch. That is why the Hamilton line always has a broad range of designs in addition to its military inspired Khaki series.
Entry level is still not cheap for most people. Keep in mind that the retail price of the rose gold plated version is $2250 plus, so a problem of this magnitude in a watch at this price is inexcusable. Honestly Hamilton, what went wrong here?
You might have figured out the problem looking at the face of the chronograph. Although the watch contains the popular Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement, Hamilton removes one of the chronograph counters (sub dials). It does this to allow space for the logo in the top center of the watch. The diagram of the typical functions of the Valjoux 7750 movement indicate that this is where the minutes counter of the chronograph lies. Meaning, this is where you can tell the elapsed minutes. The large seconds hand on the main dial indicates elapsed seconds, which the lower subdial is used to measure the hours (up to 12). Lastly, the left subsidiary dial is used for the seconds of the watch itself. In the right is a day and date display. While watch makers are free to change this around a bit, this is the full functionality of your standard Valjoux 7750.
So what does Hamilton do? They remove the minutes counter? That's right, the "working" chronograph cannot count minutes. It counts seconds and hours. This is like having a car, with a speedometer that only measures 1mph, 50mph, and 100mph. That really isn't going to be very useful for most people. Sitting there using the chronograph of the watch, I was in absolute disbelief. The store clerk didn't have much to comment except, "you know, most people don't even use the chronograph." That might be true, but if you are going to get a chronograph watch, it should at least work if and when you want to use it. I can't stress enough how much this angers me. Would this still anger me in a $100 watch? Yea, it would, but not nearly to the extent it does in a watch that costs over $2,000. Am I justified in being this irate over it? I would honestly think negatively upon the powers of perception of any person who got this watch. To own such a machine with complete disregard for its function. Let me say it again, the chronograph complication on the Hamilton Below Zero Ref. H78646733 is virtually useless, a mockery to watch lovers, and an insult to a potential owner.
I invite you to disagree with me, or think me anal in my analysis. This is one man's opinion about the machines he loves. Perhaps I should laugh it off, and veer from watches like this. But consider yourself the type who simply trusts that your new $2,500 watch will be on par with other $2,500 watches. Perhaps you received it as a gift from someone who didn't really take the time to think about it. This is plausible. You happily adorn your new watch only to realize the designers screwed you over. You don't spend this kind of money on watches for these disappointing surprises. What is the message you are trying to send here Hamilton? Buyer beware? No one purchasing from the Swatch Group should have to struggle with caveat emptor. If you buy a nice watch, you should never have to worry about it being designed by a complete moron.
It is not as though Hamilton had no choice either. There are plenty of other configurations that would have worked fine, and if they wanted to remove a counter to leave space for the logo, they could have simply moved the minute counter to the bottom, and make the watch a 30 minute chronograph versus a 12 hour one. But no, we are stuck with this. my faith in the management is severely rocked right now.
I make no judgments about other Hamilton watches, most of them are quite splendid and nice to own. Though now I will sit there and test each watch before buying it to make sure the watch maker inserted all the necessary hands.
See Hamilton Khaki watches on eBay here.
See Hamilton Khaki watches on Amazon here.
 Hamilton Khaki Officer Mens Watch H70615133  US $557.00
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 Hamilton Khaki Navy Black Dial Men's Automatic GMT US $706.00
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 Hamilton Khaki Mens Automatic Chronograph Tachymiler US $799.00
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 Hamilton Khaki Multi-Touch Men's Watch SS Quartz US $413.00
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 Hamilton Khaki X-Wind Men's Automatic Chronograph Watch US $867.00
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 Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Men's Automatic Titanium US $813.00
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Um, what? Come on Hamilton, how did this EVER get beyond the planning stage? Didn’t anyone step up and speak out about this? I love the look of the watch but the glaring flaw of the missing minute sub-dial is inexcusable. I’m assuming I’m not in the target market.
I bet they get TONS of returns over this.
Richard,
I am glad to hear that I am not the only one that is appalled by this. I have no idea what Hamilton was thinking, nor how this got by any presence of quality control.
If we aren’t the target market, who is? I hope they get plenty of returns due to this.
This has got to be the most useful chronograph ever implemented…
I have few words for a design as pointless as this one.
The target market is probably for those who get it for style and can’t be bothered about how it really works.
I’m curious to see how long before they remove that eye sore from their line or at least fix it.
Why would anyone buy this watch? I wouldn’t want a $15 quartz watch with a mistake like that, let alone a $2000+ watch. Someone is just slapping together random designs with absolutely no thought.
Get rid of the running seconds, nothing wrong with that. Make it a “lefty” and get rid of the hours counter – that works as well. Keep all the sub dials and just squeeze the name on the dial. Just about anything is better than what they did…
I am at the point where I think we should start betting on Hamilton’s reaction to this fiasco. Because they are owned by the Swiss, we are likely to receive no response, or a cryptic one. I just hope we don’t hear from one of their PR firms. Those people know about as much about watches as they do brain surgery. Wait, actually the PR firms probably know more about watches than the people who designed the Hamilton Below Zero Chronograph.
The name of “Below Zero” might stand for the developers IQ.
Really interesting: it was just a few hours before I read this post, when I heard for the first time of the brand Hamilton. I found the Khaki X-Wind, which has a very appealing look to me, and at the same time offers some interesting features and a well respected movement, all together for a bearable price. But after reading about this below-zero-fiasco I’ll probably drop that from my list. Can’t trust that brand.
Sonorman,
Humorous quip about the name of the watch. I like that. I think we all agree that this watch represents a very bad moment for Hamilton, it would be a shame to over look everything the brand delivers. While we may not always looks upon their watches with skepticism, it does not mean all their watches are bad, though I respect that you feel that way. I certainly would not want to purchase from a brand when I had a lack of faith in their design and quality commitment. Remember that they have access to lots of good resources being part of the Swatch Group. They have many design teams most likely, and we should not punish them all for the idiocy of a select few. Though like yourself my faith has been shattered to an extent. I hope they do something drastic to make up for this.
on the turning bezel….there is a scale…it is the elapsed time …for diving….or it can be ….the minute counter…
Hakim,
I understand what you mean, but there are two problems with this. First, it would require you to either start the chronograph exactly at the beginning of the hour, or turn it to the proper location and make a mental reference, and second, the minute counter on the Valjoux 7750 is a 30 minute counter, not a 60 minute counter, so it would screw things up a bit. Overall, it is technically possible to compensate a bit, but the exclusion of the dedicated minute counter for the chronograph is a pretty oversight for Hamilton, and for the money.
ok admin but it increase then the counter time compare to the valjoux
Thank you. What you need))
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