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Chanel J12 Marine Watch
Posted on March 19, 2010
Filed Under Chanel | 1 Comment
Say hello to my new little friend. Not that Chanel let me walk away with one, but I wanted to. Call me a brand whore but I love what Chanel has done with their watches. Sure I might think twice about sporting a white one around town, but these new J12 Marine watches are pretty impressive. If you recall, the standard J12 watch looks like a dive watch. It is merely a dive "style" piece, based on the core Rolex Submariner design (with a different face of course). Now Chanel released a truer diver with 300 meters of water resistant, a more dive worthy legible dial, some interesting design features.
The case is 38 or 42mm wide and in black of white. Still ceramic, the black case is bead-blasted for a matte, rather than shiny finish. Though the white version is still done with a glossy finish. Going after Blancpain's 50 Fathoms or IWC's Aquatimer, the J12 Marine has a sapphire crystal over the rotating diver's bezel. I love that look, but it is not for everyone. The case quality is very good, with the watch being solid and comfortable. Perhaps a bit small for people who prefer 44mm plus watches, the 42mm wide version is still not too bad. The black with black bezel version is only available in 42mm. How doe you feel about the black with blue bezel? Marine-ish yes, not for everyone, but I like it.
The dial is all Rolex Submariner homage in bubbly way, but with an Arabic numeral 12, at 12 o'clock. Chanel uses a fat arrow for the hour hand, and a blue baton hand for the minutes - that is matched to the seconds hand. The hour markers are all applied and raised up making for a great look against the simple looking dial. There is tons of lume all over the face as well. You can see the cross hair style lines in the middle of the watch face, just like on the standard J12 model.
Chanel is being tight lipped about the movement. Likely and ETA 2892, or equivalent. These days they likely have someone else supplying movements. It is a standard high-quality Swiss three-hand with date automatic. There is an interesting engraving on the rear of the case, that is perhaps too simple than it should be (some wavy lines). Matches to the watch is a cool rubber bracelet. Chanel opted for the highest quality rubber, but it is still flexible. It has vented holes in it to let water in and out. Good for wearing on very humid days actually. Price is going to be in the $5,000 range if memory serves me correctly. These watches are important because it shows that dive watches are still the hottest pieces around, and that demand for fashion brands such as Chanel is very high. In fact, these tough economic times seem to indicate that it is fashion brands like Chanel that still have relatively high demand in watches due to the lasting popularity of the brand name.
See Technical details from Chanel below:
Case
Black high-tech* sand-blasted ceramic and steel case with --black rubber bracelet and blue bezel (38 and 42mm) or black bezel (42mm).
White high-tech* polished ceramic steel case with white rubber --strap and white bezel (38mm).
Engraved steel back.
Bezel
Unidirectional rotating steel bezel, engraved and equipped with a high-tech ceramic or sapphire dial (in blue or black) for easy reading of time under water.
Luminescent dot at 12 o’clock acts as guide marker.
Watch-glass
Sapphire watch-crystal with a blue anti-reflective coating on the inside and outside (on the black version) or clear coating on the white model.
Crown
Screw down steel crown with high-tech* ceramic cabochon equipped with a crown protector.
Dial
Black or white lacquer dial.
Hands, numerals and the numeral ‘12’ is luminescent for perfect legibility in the darkness.
Water-resistance
Resistant to a pressure depth of 300 meters (30 atm).
Movement
Mechanical Swiss automatic movement (28,800 vibrations/hour).
Power reserve: 42 hours.
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date and time under water on the bezel.
Bracelet
Matte rubber bracelet with openings allow water to be released --from the bracelet.
Highly water resistant, shock resistant, light resistant, UV resistant composite material.
Clasp
Polished and satin-finish ardillon buckle, engraved with CHANEL
New Steel Rolex Submariner Watch For 2010
Posted on March 18, 2010
Filed Under Rolex | 1 Comment
The long awaited new steel version of the new generation of Rolex Submariner watches is here. The official name is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date. This is not a surprise release from the brand for 2010. However, the introduction of a standard green dial is something I didn't expect. Like clockwork, over the last few years Rolex has been updating their GMT Master II collection and then a white gold new Submariner. Last year the released a new two-tone (steel and gold) Submariner watch with a blue or a black dial. It was only logical that this year would see the release of a new all steel Submariner, ref. 116610. This is most important because the steel versions are the most popular - given their position as having the lowest cost version of one of the most popular timepieces on the planet (if not the most popular luxury watch on the planet).
The new watches have the same 40mm width, but a slightly different shape of case and a new "maxi dial." Like the other new Submariners and GMT Master II, the dial has larger hands and hour indicators. Plus the lume should glow blue. Another wonderful addition to the steel Submariners is the ceramic bezel. Rolex calls it "Cerachrom," and they do it probably better than anyone else. The ceramic has a beautiful tone and is very crisp looking. Compared to the ceramic bezel on the GMT Master II, the Submariner bezels are a more matte finished.
A broader case looks elegant as ever and still thin. Even though the Submariner is smaller at 40mm in size that most modern men's watches, it still holds it own quite well. A bold wrist look that you just can't beat. Don't forget that the case is water resistant to 300 meters in this "original" mainstream true diver's watch. The larger hands and indexes make the face easier to read and dare I say, more Rolexy. The case is not made of grade 316L steel, but rather the higher grade grade 904L steel that has all sorts of special chemical resistance abilities.
Green is a color that Rolex is known for using in special models. The release of a new mainstream Submariner model is a special occasion. It is a substantial tone that isn't too bright or dark. The dial is metallic, while Rolex calls "Green Gold." There is another reason for the green face - to help get existing Submariner buyers to get one. If you have a previous generation Submariner there isn't huge incentive to upgrade unless you are "that type of person." But with a new dial color, and potentially new personality, existing fans will see reason to add to their collection.
Thankfully we now have a Submariner with the famous Rolex Glide-Lock clasp. This gives the bracelet clasp a special micro-adjust ability that gives it a very precise fit. Plus, you can change the size as often as you like for tighter or looser days. Rolex isn't the first to have a special bracelet clasp like this, but they do it oh so well. Inside the watch is the same invincible 3135 automatic COSC Chronometer certified movement. Not much to say there, there are few better three-hand date movements out there. It is of course 100% made and designed by Rolex. Price for the new Submariner watches hasn't been released yet, but I suspect they will be almost identical to the outgoing models. Look for them in stores soon watch lovers. The new piece might not be a monumental upgrade, but that isn't watch Rolex does. They just keep making their good stuff better.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
REFERENCE (CASE / BRACELET): 116610 LN/V / 97200
Case
Diameter: 40 mm
Material: 904L steel
Bezel: unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated
with black or green Cerachrom insert, platinum graduations
Winding crown: Triplock
shoulders to protect the crown
Crystal: sapphire, Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating
Waterproofness: 300 m (1,000 ft)
Movement
Calibre: 3135
Self-winding: Perpetual rotor
Date: instantaneous change and rapid setting
Oscillator: frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour)
Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil
Precision: COSC-certified chronometer
Power reserve: ~48 hours
Dial
Green version has green gold dial
Hour markers: luminescent Chromalight
Hands: luminescent Chromalight
Bracelet
Material: 904L steel
Type: Oyster
Clasp: Rolex Glidelock
See Rolex Submariner watches on eBay here.
See Rolex watches on Amazon here.
 ROLEX SS SUBMARINER DATE 16610 Z SERIAL 2008 BOX/PAPERS  US $4,995.00
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 MENS SS GREEN ROLEX SUBMARINER 50TH ANNIVERSARY 16610LV US $5,775.00
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 MENS 18K/SS ROLEX SUBMARINER SLATE SERTI DIAL MINTY!! US $6,325.00
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 Vintage 1969 Rolex Submariner 5513 US $4,000.00
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 Rolex Watch Repair Clean Oil Adjust Datejust Submariner US $155.00
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 ROLEX SUBMARINER OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE w/ SERTI DAIAL US $4,900.00
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Prometheus Recon 5 Watch Review
Posted on March 17, 2010
Filed Under Prometheus | 3 Comments
Here is another watch review contributed by Santtu M. I reviewed a previous model by this brand, the Ocean Diver watch here. See his review below:
Recon 5 is the new product from Prometheus, a rather new boutique brand with plenty of determination. This is their take on popular aviator theme. At the first glance I knew that Prometheus were not doing an other aviator, they were doing their adaptation of it. Watch has definite military vibe to it which comes from clean minimalistic dial, very easy to read markings and hands. It's clear that Prometheus had a ambition when making design choices here. As they say them selves on their blog, this watch is a tribute to reconnaissance squadrons of the world and 5th squadron of US Airforce in special.
Hands on this watch bring images of military instruments to my mind and dial has made a bold move towards readability, nice amount of empty space. On dial you can clearly see "room" below 12 o'clock marker, which to me yells utilitarian design. Keeping the dial uncluttered helps reading the time, which is super easy to do at glance with this piece. Dial markings as well as hands are covered in super luminova which illuminate the dial nicely and gives this watch superb night readability.
What really sets this watch apart from most aviator watches is the unique way of incorporating contemporary military styling into classic aviator dial. And it's not a simple cosmetic chance since it improves the readability of the watch quit nicely. For me this is one of the easiest reading watches out there, simple, clean and most of all utilitarian. Just what aviator watches should be about.
It's clear that at Prometheus they have a mission of providing high bang for the buck ratio. Recon 5 has a Swiss Unitas 6497-1 with Côtes de Genève finish inside and it does look good as you can see throe the display back. The movement choice also makes perfect sense in military oriented watch since the manually wound 6497-1 is known for robustness. Robustness is a feature that carries throughout the watch - evident in sapphire crystals (both of them) as well as usage of surgical steel as case material. This watch was build for durability and performance under stress in the cockpit. And priced aggressively at 269 euros. Still, it is a basic timepiece with a rough finishing that will probably give the watch a vintage feel. Regardless, Prometheus isn't targeting IWC or Glashutte Original pilot watches, which is apparently by the price.
Watch case is brushed and surface finish is even and of good quality. This gives a nice contrast to oversize crown which is highly polished to mirror like finish. Overall the brushed finish is a one more touch to utilitarian feel that comes out of this watch from all angles. Case is water-resistant to 50 meters which is perfectly adequate for a watch meant for the skies.
Recon 5 is strapped with nice brown padded leather strap that's super comfy on wrist. Lugs are 22mm which is a nice substantial size for a watch of this size (44mm with out the crown). All in all this watch is proportioned nicely, it has substantial size with out being huge or uncomfortable.
I must say that they have succeeded rather well bringing new fresh ideas to traditional design while still honoring it's roots. Giving traditional aviator watch a modern new look with out being out of place. For many, this will be a way of getting a boutique brand Aviator style watch with a Swiss movement for a price lower than you'd expect.
Visit Prometheus watches here.
Popular Watchmakers Sign New Book At Basel
Posted on March 17, 2010
Filed Under Watch Industry News | Leave a Comment
If you are one of the lucky people who is going to be at Basel, you can join me and many others, at the book signing of the new book on watch makers, "12 Faces Of Time." The special event will see some of today's best watch makers together. The book features and profiles them, discussing them and their work. While each of the watch makers is different, they are each easily in the genius category. This is probably one of your only chances to see them all together. Watch makers aren't know to be the most social people, but ask them the right questions, and they open up like a crack in the Hoover Dam. Watch makers are also known to sometimes be notoriously competitive, so I wonder if a "best watch maker" fight will ensue. "5 Microns?!! Psssshhh... Try 4 Microns!" That would certainly be cause for attendance. I can just see them signing my book with ever larger signatures trying to one up each other.
Among the watch makers attending there is no one or two headliners, each of these guys is amazing at what they do. I am glad that they could all be there together for the signing of 12 Faces of Time: Horological Virtuosos. If you can't make it, you can buy the book on Amazon for a good price (below it s $95 retail cost).
When: Saturday, March 20 and Sunday, March 21 at 14 h / 2:00 pm
Where: Baselworld: Messeplatz, directly in front of Hall 1.0, in the book hut run by Watchprint
The people you will meet:
1. Elizabeth Doerr (author)
2. Ralf Baumgarten (photographer)
Watchmakers portrayed in the book:
3. Philippe Dufour
4. Vianney Halter
5. Felix Baumgartner
6.Thomas Prescher
7. Volker Vyskocil,
8. Paul Gerber,
9. Beat Haldimann,
10. Dr. Ludwig Oechslin,
11. Kari Voutilainen,
12. Roger Smith,
13. François-Paul Journe.
Check it out!
Casio PAG110C-3 ‘Go Green’ Pathfinder Watch
Posted on March 16, 2010
Filed Under Casio | Leave a Comment
Lots of watch brands create special timepieces that are more eco-friendly than the rest of their collection, and sell them as special or limited edition pieces. Then you have brands like Casio that has naturally eco-friendly watches by design. With light powered movements that charge batteries instead of requiring them to be changes, the basic principles of the watch are eco-friendly. Casio didn't even need do anything special to accomplish that for this Go Green edition PAG110C-3 Pathfinder watch. It is certainly true that battery waste is harmful to the environment.
To press the point, Casio is releasing a new Go Green collection of watches - and this Pathfinder model will lead the new pieces. The watches will each be in green (for the green message) and also come in packaging made of recycled materials. The pieces have all the features you expect in mid-range Casio Pathfinder pieces. This includes a durable case and strap, altimeter, barometer, compass, stopwatch, countdown timer, 5 alarms, calendar, world time, and more. The cool green tones of the case and dial really do liven up the look.
I have one of these pieces that I will be reviewing for you in the near future. The Casio PAG110C-3 Go Green Pathfinder watch will be available exclusively on Amazon.com for the price of $250.
Cabestan Nostromo Watch
Posted on March 16, 2010
Filed Under Cabestan | 25 Comments
For 2010 Cabestan brings us something totally new. A fantastic new design dreamed up by talented watch designer Jean-François Ruchonnet. Yes of course the watch is similar to Cabestan's previous model, the Winch Tourbillon Vertical watch - but is actually more affordable (relatively speaking of course). Gone is the tourbillon, complex winch mechanism and double sapphire crystal over the movement on the face of the watch. Also, instead of the fusee chain transmission is a new gear-shaft style transmission. Cabestan watches are incredibly well finished and made. Much of this is thanks to their in-house master technician Eric Coudray. A classic watch maker by all accords who takes incredible pride in his work.
The idea of the Nostromo is be more accessible, mechanically fascinating, and user-friendly. Plus, Cabestan loves the idea of basing the name and design on the spaceship from the classic Alien movie. Time is remarkably easy to read. There are several drums on the dial that are engraved with numerals. These serve to indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds. There is a fourth drum used to indicate the 50 hour power reserve. Cabestan has included a jumping hour complication to make reading the hours even easier. This is all thanks to the new in-house made and designed Calibre CAB PG 160 manually wound movement. The movement bridges are done in black with much of the mechanics in polished steel. This is to highlight those features. Check out the awesome looking drive-shaft on the right of the dial (it is also viewable through the side right sapphire crystal window). This moves power from the mainspring barrel to the rest of the movement.
Winding the watch is much more simple that the previous Cabestan watch. The top right capstan is unscrewed and pops out - turning it into a standard crown for winding and adjusting the watch. The Winch Tourbillon Vertical actually (later models) actually came with a separate winch winding unit. The entire watch case (not sure of the dimensions right now, but I would guess no winder than 40mm) is in black PVD coated titanium. Note that presence of the sapphire crystal over the dial and again on the both sides of the watch as well as the rear - for the best view of the movement possible.
One of the coolest parts of the Nostromo watch is what happens to it in the dark. Unlike most watches that just have luminant over the hands and numerals, the Nostromo has SuperLumiNova applied in many places on the movement and on the strap itself. The idea is to have luminant inside of bridges, and in various little areas to create a sensational sense of depth in the dark. Like something right our of a sci-fi universe, the Cabestan Nostromo is meant to wildly glow at night. Cabestan's owner and Ruchonnet feel that this will look really cool in the clubs. The internal luminant seem to be done in black as not to look pale green during the day.
What you are left with is a very cool design and a classically made movement, though its execution is unorthodox. Unlike many brands that offer interesting movements but leave you worried about afters-sales service, Cabestan is a true watch maker, who is there to service their pieces themselves. The Nostromo is due for release very soon with an estimated price of about 150,000 Swiss Francs.
Technical details straight from Cabestan:
FUNCTIONS
• HOURS, MINUTES, SECONDS READ FROM THREE ENGRAVED ROTARY DRUMS
• POWER RESERVE INDICATOR ON AN ENGRAVED ROTARY DRUM (50 HOURS)
MOVEMENT
• FULLY MECHANICAL MOVEMENT CALIBRE CAB PG 160 WITH SWISS ANCHOR ESCAPEMENT
• FREQUENCY: 21 600 ALT/H OR 3 HZ
• 37 RUBIES
• BREGUET BALANCE-SPRING; MOBILE GENEVA STUD
• WINDING UP AND TIME SETTING USING AN EXTRACTING CROWN
• VERTICAL GEAR SYSTEM, HOLLOW BRIDGES, DRIVE SHAFT WITH CONICAL GEARS, SPECIALLY MACHINED BARREL
• SUPERLUMINOVA COATING INSIDE THE BRIDGES & WINDOWS, ALSO ON OTHER SURFACES
• FULLY HAND FINISHED: BEVELLING, POLISHING, DRAWING, GRAINING AND HOOPING
CASE
• BLACK PVD TITANIUM CASE
• ONE FUNCTIONAL CAPSTAN WITH EXTRACTING CROWN & THREE ORNAMENTAL CAPSTANS
• TWO SIDE WINDOWS WITH SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS
• CASE BACK IN SAPPHIRE
STRAP & BUCKLE
• FOLDING BUCKLE WITH DUAL CAPSTANS
• HIGH QUALITY TWO-LAYER RUBBER STRAP WITH BLACK SUPERLUMINOVA COATING
Louis Moinet Jules Verne Instrument Watch Review
Posted on March 15, 2010
Filed Under Louis Moinet | Leave a Comment
Getting a chance to check out and review this watch for a while was really a dream come true. I recall when I wrote about it a while ago here when it was first announced. I knew then that I really wanted to wear one. The full limited edition of the Louis Moinet Jules Verne Instrument watches is finally out, and Louis Moinet even has created the artistic steampunk Vernoscope set that comes with four special pieces. My opinion is that Jules Verne style watches are going to be a big part of Louis Moinet's future, and it all starts here.
So what is the Jules Vernes Instrument watch? A vintage sci-fi relic? A luxury steampunk creation? Or just a cool watch influenced by the father of sci-fi? All of the above really. I want to say early that there are two versions of the watch from a complication standpoint. These are the Jules Verne Instrument # 1 and the Jules Verne Instrument # 2. If you don't know what you are looking for in the watch, it can honestly be a bit of a pain to tell the difference between the two. Each of them have modified Valjoux 7750 automatic movements with a special module on them. The Instrument # 1 has a module that has a GMT hand at the subdial at 9 o'clock, while the Instrument # 2 has a rattrapante (split second chronograph) built onto the 12 hour chronograph that is already part of the Valjoux 7750. Both versions have upgraded date functions. What is the upgrade? Well basically you can adjust the date either forward or backwards. Plus, operating the small date hand on the dial located at 3 o'clock is buttery smooth. Really, it is a joy to adjust the date. I never thought I would say that with that particular function, but it is true. The company that makes the special modules does so for a few brands, but movements like this are hard to find.
Louis Moinet chose the Valjoux 7750 movement for its durability, reliability, and to be honest , value. While the Louis Moinet Jules Verne Instrument watches aren't cheap, they could have been much more expensive. What I love about the choice of using a work-horse movement with a module, is that you get the best of a few worlds. The functions added by the modules in the movements are well integrated, perform nicely, and feel durable. These are important factors to me. As you can see, this is the Instrument # 2, which means that it has a split second chronograph. Here is how it works. You start the chronograph as normal. At any point, you press the pusher located at 10 o'clock and a little hand underneath the chronograph seconds hand stops. You can then start or stop it whenever you like and be able to measure a separate 60 seconds total, while the standard 12 hour chronograph is still running. It basically gives you the ability to time a shorter measurement without having to stop the main chronograph. It is pretty useful in certain situations. Likewise, with the Instrument # 1, having an adjustable GMT hour hand is useful for having a second timezone, or as an AM/PM indicator. Going back to the movement for a moment, you can see it through the sapphire caseback window on the back of the watch. It uses some blued screws, perlage polish, and a specially engraved rotor for decoration. Overall, with a movement such as this at this price level, I am satisfied.
The functions of the watch are laid out nicely, and I like the design of the applied gold ring or semi rings in the dial. The dial itself comes in silver or black, and I hear is a pain in the ass to engrave. Louis Moinet had to located the right supplier that could do the signature "Louis Moinet sunburst" design on the dial (and automatic rotor). It looks really good, and I am glad that Louis Moinet went to the effort of finding someone who could do it. The hands are all really thin and mean to look like Jules Verne era industrial gauges. The thin arrow hour and minute hands appear clear as day in some lighting situations, and blend in with the face in other situations. This is a quirk with the dial that makes it less that legible in certain lighting situations, but it still always look so good. From an artistic standpoint the dial is beautiful. Though like the issue with the hands, there are some other readability problems. The dial has no lume, and the small gold dots on the minute scale look like that are supposed to be hour indicators, but actually aren't. They are placed between the hours. The minute indicators double as hour indicators. This can be a bit confusing to the eye sometimes. What really does help legibility is the properly sized hands in terms of length, and the dial is still very useful given all that is going on. Even with these quirks, the dial provides so much visual pleasure (not to mention compliments) that it is hard to resist wearing it often.
I am really in love with the watch case. It is big at about 46.5mm wide with a case that has several different materials in it. Most of the case is brushed grade 5 titanium. Then it has 18k rose gold, as well as some polished steel. One of the first things you notice about the case is the fold out chronograph pushers. There really isn't much to say about them, they fold out, work just as described, and fold back in securely. I love the intricately designed large crown. It has steel and gold in it, and an engraved fleur de lys Louis Moinet logo in it. The bezel is also very nicely done in steel with that 18k rose gold ring and trim. Finish on the case is very nice, and it overall is a great look that fits well thanks to its gentle curvature.
You can further appreciate the lugless approach that the design takes. The alligator strap is connected underneath, making for a seamless look. Opposite the crown is a curious element of the design. There is a little porthole made with more detail that you might expect. Underneath that sapphire crystal window is a flat cut piece of gray stone. I admit that this element of the watch could have been designed a bit better (so that the rock in there looks more like a piece of rock rather than part of the case), but you can't deny that what it is makes you want one of these watches. The stone in there is a piece of the moon. Real moon rock, and not even harvested from the moon. We actually have more moon rock that we got from the moon than this type of stone. This is a piece of the moon that feel from the moon to the earth. How did it do that you ask? Well it wasn't easy. Basically, what had to happen at some point was a meteorite needed to slam into the moon, hitting it so hard that a piece breaks off and goes into space. That moon rock projectile needs to fly toward the earth, and hit the earth after surviving the fall into the atmosphere the breaks up most meteorites. After all that, this rocks needs to survive the elements and be found by someone. Of course, it goes without saying that such a stone isn't cheap, and not exactly easy to come by. Ultra rare, and you can have a little piece of one right on your wrist in this watch. It is all very fitting as the watch is a direct homage to Jules Verne's "From the Earth to the Moon." Gimmicky? A bit. But darn it the gimmick works on me like honey to a bear. I love the idea, and it makes me feel awesome to show it off to people. Needless to say it usually result in an impressed person asking "who makes that? It is really cool."
All the titanium in the watch makes it lighter than it would be if it was all steel or gold. So it isn't that heavy, and it is pretty comfy to wear. The alligator strap is done in an interesting way. It is actually coated with vulcanized rubber. That way it is more durable, but has the signature reptile look to it. Also, it has a neat technical flavor that goes with the watch itself. It is connected below with a largish folding butterfly clasp. The deployment clasp has a good looking design, and secures perfectly, but seems to look a bit like it is going to open up. It doesn't at all, but something about the design could be refined a bit to give it a more compact look. Just another quirk the watch has, but honestly these quirks help give it character, and I don't think they will bar people otherwise interesting in the pieces from getting one.
It feels as though I should provide some literary summation points for this watch. Especially given how much of a cool fantasy piece it is. Jules Verne was called crazy in his day, and then years later it turns out he was mostly correct in his methods about how we actually did most of the things he dreamed up. Sure, there aren't "Mysterious Islands" with giant crabs living on them, but we did travel to the moon in a rocket similar to what he imagined, and we did travel to the depth of the oceans in a submersible vessel similar to his drawings. So what does that say about the watch? Perhaps it is a testament to big dreamers. One who imagines how things might be, and predicts how we might accomplish them. The steampunk look of the watch signals the beginning of modern science and engineering as we know it. In that sense it is almost a historical throw-back. However you see the watch, it is a looker and a real emotionally charged work of art. I love the thing.
Each of the Louis Moinet Jules Verne Instrument watches is available with either a black or silver dial and limited to 60 pieces. That means there are 240 of the limited edition watches available. I also hear that there are a few blue and Havana (tobacco brown) dials available in even more limited editions. Prices for the watch at about $18,900 each - and pretty darn worth it if you have the means and the dreams.
DeWitt Academia Quantieme Perpetuel Nebula GMT Watch Available On James List
Posted on March 14, 2010
Filed Under DeWitt | Leave a Comment
Back a few years ago when the money flowed like wine - the luxury watch world was known to take generous, deep sips from the pool. It was a gold age of new ideas, brands and designs. A promising brand that might not reach the next decade is DeWitt. I've always liked the majority of their designs, and found their philosophy intriguing. This is one of their coolest models in my opinion. A neat looking perpetual calendar watch with a GMT hand. Sure, it is an expensive watch, but it is a relic from an era - communicating the exuberance of an era, which hearkening back to the roaring 20s with its art deco look.
The 43mm case came in two variants (matched to a black or white textured dial). The cases either had white or rose gold, mixed with black ceramic and polished titanium. I've checked out these pieces before, and they are nicely made with really bold designs. I love the quasi-checkered bezels iconic to the brand.
The five symmetrical subdials are beautifully arranged with straight forward functions all for the perpetual calendar. These include dials for the date, month, day of the week, leap year indicator, and synchronized 24 hour hand (acts like an AM/PM indicator). You then have the unique looking moon phase indicator. The plate over the moon phase disc is made out of silicium and has a copy of an actual galaxy applied to it. This lush blue always looked so nice using mother of pearl (that has been cut in half) as the moon pieces. The moon phase indicator is set against a segment of the dial that has a "starry" backdrop. This is done with goldfluss - and looks quite cool.
Inside the watch is actually and automatic movement. Aside from the perpetual calendar functions and the time, the watch has an easy to read GMT hand in red. You don't see too many watches with these features that really highlight the GMT complication. The movement is the DeWitt DW7021. Few will argue that the watch is pretty. Can you see yourself wearing a piece like this? Hard to say. I could probably pull it out off, but people might think me the ambassador from the planet luxicon. Price for the DeWitt Academia Quantieme Perpetual Nebula GMT watch was close to $100,000 when it was introduced a few years ago. One is available here on James List, and if you are interested I highly recommend working to negotiate a good price of 30-40% off.
Corum Ti-Bridge Tourbillon Watch
Posted on March 13, 2010
Filed Under Corum | 1 Comment
Corum just sent me shout-out on this new Tourbillon watch that will be released a few days at Basel 2010. Thus, there will be at least two new tourbillon watches from Corum this year - this Ti-Bridge Tourbillon, and the Admiral's Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon. While I have really only noticed that "Corum key" logo on the Admiral's Cup models, now it shows up on this new Ti-Bridge, as the top of the cage over what appears to be a flying tourbillon. I must admit that it looks pretty cool. The in-house made movement is very thin in the standard horizontal fashion of the timepiece line. The movement should be made of mostly titanium, and looks to have double barrels (for at least 50-60 hours of power reserve), and of course is manually wound.
Like all Ti-Bridge watches the case is going to be beautifully finished. It is really a piece of art and feels so smooth in the hands. You can see all the different forms of titanium in various polishes. The dial looks like it is a screen being framed by the case. A nice "Corum" logo is engraved into bridge on the movement - I like the slightly restyled logo. Looks pretty sharp next to the key emblem.
It is hard to convey just how cool a design the Corum Ti-Bridge watches are. They are fashioney watches, but nice ones at that. What I mean is that they aren't function first designs. You have the hands on the dial but no scales for them. This is a watch that is all about how it looks on the wrist and the beauty of the very small movement.
Corum is being intentionally scant about the details. Not sure about the dimensions or price, or other special features. But here is the sneak peek and the goodness that is coming up. I look forward to checking it out in a few days.
Seiko Premier Kinetic Perpetual Watch For 2010
Posted on March 12, 2010
Filed Under Seiko | 3 Comments
For the last few years Seiko has not only been impressing me with their sport watches, but also their more formal offerings. The recently (over the last few years) revamped Premier collection has a number of attractive looking pieces for both men and women. The watches have a smooth gracefulness to the case design, along with a very modern size. I fear that most "classy" watches out there are still too small for my tastes, but this timepiece is an exception.
At 43mm wide, the size feels very proper given the style of the watch. Last year the big release in the Premier watch collection was the Moon Phase Direct Drive that I discussed here. I loved the amount of complications that it injected into the design as well as the inclusion of the Kinetic Direct Drive movement. This model before you is in rose gold-toned steel, offering a less complex dial, and a more affordable price.
The movement is a Seiko Kinetic Perpetual Auto Relay. The quartz movement has an "accumulator" like a battery, and a battery that is charged via a rotor in the back of the watch and also has a special system that lets the watch "sleep" for up to four years. It is an interesting hybrid between mechanical and electronic. You don't need to change the battery in the movement like normal quartz watches (though the watch might need servicing eventually, like most any watch). The Auto Relay system will activate once the watch is inactive for 24 hours. I presume this means that the rotor in the watch does not turn. While in sleep mode the watch hands will cease to move, but the watch will still keep track of the time and date. It can do this for up to four years on a full charge. The moment the watch is picked up and moved again, the Auto Relay system will automatically move all the hands in the right position again. How cool is that? Talk about power efficiency. It is a very logical complication to place into such a movement.
Inside the watch is the Seiko Caliber 7D56 movement (which is available in some other nicer Seiko watches as well). You already know it is a Kinetic and has Auto Relay, but it is also has a perpetual calendar complication. This provides that the watch always displays the accurate date, and will not need to be adjusted until the year 2100. Information on the dial includes the time (with central seconds hand), big-date (large sized date window that uses two discs and is located close to 12 o'clock), the month, a leap year indicator, and 24 hour hand (useful, among other things, for AM/PM indication).
The visible applied hour indicators are similar to the large polished ones used on the high-end Seiko Ananta watches, and look very nice next to the white on black Roman numerals. One of the more interesting design elements of the dial is thematically borrowed from the Audemars Piguet Millenary line of the watches. The Roman hour numerals on the bottom of the dial are large than those on the top. While in the opposite position, the applied gold-tone hour indicators are larger on the top and smaller on the bottom. This creates an oblong look to these rings within rings. Despite appearing a bit asymmetric, the dial is perfectly centered. Plus, you get a mixture of baton hour markers and Roman numeral hour markers.
The men's Seiko Premier case style has always appealed to me, and I like the rose gold mixed with black. It has always been a very substantial and proud look. I particularly like the design of the lugs. Fit and finish of the Seiko Premier watches is also very good, always feeling like a watch more expensive than they actually are. Naturally the crystal is sapphire, and the case has 100 meters of water resistance. The Seiko Premier Kinetic Perpetual watch is matched to a black crocodile skin textured embossed leather strap with a matching steel deployment clasp. The watch reference number is SNP036P1 and will retail for 980 euros in Europe (available in Japan, and some other parts of the world as well. Look these this new Seiko model soon.
