Sinn Now Places Impressive Diapal Technology In 757 UTC Watch Series
Posted on May 16, 2008
Filed Under New Watches, Sinn, Watch Buying, Watches | Leave a Comment
When you consider what goes on inside of a watch movement, it is impressive that they even work at all. I mean really, have you ever considered the delicate dance of components harmonically beating and gyrating to the rhythm of the balance wheel which must maintain a strenuously high level of consistency? To think such sophistication was birthed so long ago, and yet only now serious improvement are being made.
The constant motion of component on component is a close relationship of neighboring metals (literally), and has the unpleasant side effect of friction. If you are mechanically minded, you will surely fathom that years of metal on metal contact has the side effect of wearing out the parts. This however is interestingly avoided in most part to special oils and the use of “rubies” for lubrication and to reduce wear. Rubies, are polished stones that after as strong points between various moving pieces of a watch. Gems are particularly hard (even the synthetic ones uses in watches) and don’t experience the same type of wear that most metals do. Regardless, there is still the issue of smooth motion between parts. Thus, a primary concern of any watch construction is the mitigation of wear, plus the assurance of absolutely reliably movement of the escapement (amplitude).
Your typical mechanical watch needs to be maintained every couple of years to ensure fluid operation. This means opening up the movement for a oil and cleaning job during the “servicing process.” Sinn, completely unhappy with this status quo wanted to remove this headache. They succeeded in prototyping this technology in the mid 1990s, using a technique they called “Diapal.” The term is merely a contraction of the words “DIAmond” and “PALete.” Without going into it on a deep level that will inevitably bore you, here is what you need to know. Sinn Diapal watches use OIL-FREE escapements and round polished diamonds instead of traditional rubies which don’t wear at all, and are much much smoother to reduce friction and enhance consistent amplitude. Again, the escapement has no oil! Pretty nice.
So there you have it, polished diamonds used over rubies to create a smoothly operating balance wheel and escapement combination that does not need lubricating oil, thus elongating the lifespan of the watch! That is really impressive, as it took years for Sinn to reduce this process to reliable practice. Of course they hold patents on it.
The Sinn 757 is the newest Sinn watch in the line up to house a Diapal movement. Before the 757, the 756 (same watch without a rotating bezel) was given a Diapal movement. Visually there are a couple of things which set the Diapal version apart from the normal version. The chronograph subdials remain the same black color, while the rest of the dial takes on a ghostly shade of gray. The UTC hand is now white, as opposed to yellow in the standard Sinn 757 UTC version. Further, there is a Diapal indicator on the face of the watch. Overall, it looks really cool.
Because the Sinn 757 UTC Diapal is new, they are hard to get, but well worth it, for the technology, the tegimented case, and the long life span. This new iteration of the 757 series makes a superman watch even hardier.
See Sinn watches on eBay here.
See Sinn watches on Amazon here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
The Watch LCD Revolution Is On The Horizon: LG Releases First Circular Color LCD Screens
Posted on May 15, 2008
Filed Under Concept Creations, Non-Watch Items, Watches | 2 Comments
This may look like a pretty average watch, but in actuality it represents years of effort. This is one solid circular LCD (liquid crystal display) screen, something that is very hard to do. It also displays 262,000 colors, unlike the monochromatic watch LCDs that you are used to.
In the past, all LCD panels needed to be square or rectangular. For years, efforts have been made to give LCD screens more organic shapes, but the nature of their construction made this almost impossible. That left us with boring little screens on our Casio watches.
Color LCD panels are nothing new, but there is little to no color LCD penetration on watch displays. This is due to the necessity for backlighting, which would require frequent battery changes or charging. New technologies are changing this, and what you see is a clear representation of what we can come to expect in the upcoming years. On that note, new types of LCD (and of course OLED; organic light emitting diode) require less or no backlighting at all, which increases the battery life. Further, it is worth noting that because there are TFT (Trans reflective) displays, they have a sharp yet wide viewing angle.
Some of you might be turned off at the thought of having to charge a watch. Think of it this way, how much more work is it to charge a watch than it is to wind a manual watch, or put an automatic watch on a winder when not worn. To an extent, an exciting watch can sometimes have a temporal cost of ownership.
This screen was made by LG, but you can look forward to other companies jumping on board soon. Currently the costs are probably pretty high. But as the laws of technological innovation go, as production increases, costs will go down. If you think of the possibilities they are really vast. The artistic and function flexibility when it comes to designing a watch on a totally circular, color LCD is vast. Watches can take just about any form, either digital or analog, and can obviously change via user command. I even foresee user modifiable DIY watch kits. Think about it. You get the watch and interchangeable straps along with software that allows you to create any type of watch or wrist instrument you want. Now that is a very cool idea.
Look out for more interest technological achievements sure to benefit your love of watches. Read more about LG circular LCD technology here.
See LG electronics on eBay here.
See LG products on Amazon here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
‘Superman’ Sinn 757 Tegimented Chronograph Watch Available Now
Posted on May 14, 2008
Filed Under Sinn, Watch Buying, Watches, eBay | Leave a Comment
A “superman” watch is one that is hard to destroy, or really rugged. Most all Sinn watches fall into this category, as they go above and beyond the normal threshold for wear and tear, along with the ability to survive very extreme conditions. All this needs to be taken into consideration when realizing we are talking about a little machine that sits on your wrist.
In fact, no other genuine machines (meaning they are mechanical through and through), can really match how hardy a good watch is, and Sinn obviously takes that to another level. I am not going to bore anyone with a laundry list of features that the Sinn 757 has which makes it strong. Suffice it to say that you can rely of the following main assurances from the powerhouse German watch maker. First, the case is made of a specially hardened steel (which is “Tegimented”), upping the vicker strength, to a Superman like five time stronger than normal steel. The movement and inside of the case are anti-magnetic and feature special shock protection. So you can throw this watch around for years and worry little about what is going on inside. Sinn also uses specially formulated oils and sometime Argon case in this cases to increase the time between servicing, and the ability for the watch to operate smoothly deep underwater or in sub-freezing temperatures. The list of durability features Sinn places in most of its watches could go on, suffice it so say that you don’t need to baby your Sinn 757.
The Sinn 757 was a new model for Sinn at Basel World 2007. Technically a pilot watch, it has many other uses. The bezel rotates in either direction (as opposed to one direction which is normal for diving watches), and the watch features a 12 hour chronograph based on an ETA Valjoux 7750, but is heavily modified by Sinn. New iterations of the 757 model come out, but the looks stay rather consistent, which is good. This is by far, one of the most handsome, understated, yet powerful looking Sinn watch, or any watch for that matter.
I featured the similar Sinn 757 UTC (that is the same model but with a 24 hour GMT hand) in my article about watches that would suit someone well if they were to be stranded on a deserted island. The SInn 757 is among the few mechanical watches that has the potential for operating many years without worry or accuracy dilemmas.
A perfect condition Sinn 757 on a black bund strap is available on eBay right now. I cannot say what the reserve price is, but I do know the Buy It Now price is a good deal less than retail, which is only one authorized place in the US (WatchBuys.com). Otherwise you have to fend for yourself in getting one, so it is fortunate one is available now.
See Sinn watches on eBay here.
See Sinn watches on Amazon here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
Review of the TX 730 Flyback Chronograph (Grown Up Timex) From WatchReport.com
Posted on May 13, 2008
Filed Under Aviation Watches, General, TX TechnoLuxury, Timex, Watch Reviews, Watches | Leave a Comment
Designer Xemex XE 5000 ‘Sun’ Chronograph Watch Available
Posted on May 13, 2008
Filed Under Watch Buying, Watches, Xemex, eBay | Leave a Comment
Xemex is a great brand built on the expertise and designs of industrial designer Ruedi Kulling. He has done a great job of mixing geometric design, minimalism, and ergonomics. What was once a small watch design operation is blossoming as people are appreciating the look of these watches. I recall my first Xemex watch which was an Offroad model. I recall being so pleased at how each element of the watch fit together so nicely in both construction and aesthetic form. I feel this way about most every Xemex watch.
This particular model is simply called the Xemex XE 5000, nick named “Sun” due to the charming yellow hue of the dial. The color, is almost a cream yellow, and suits the watch well. Chronograph subdials are done in a soft chalky gray. The combination is far more calming that one might presume. Hands are black and stenciled nicely in white, and the red seconds hand for the chronograph suggests a utilitarian component to this otherwise very pleasant looking watch.
The case is particularly well designed. Well convexed steel makes for a shape that is rounded yet angular. The lugs are separate components allowing them to wrap around one’s wrist easily. This is a common feature among all Xemex watches, and make for a snugly fitting watch that is not too tight. I also love how the crown is inset into the case, so that you only need to pull it out for operation. Otherwise it does not get in the way. The look is actually pretty interesting with the large exposed chronograph pushers and the hidden crown.
Legibility has always been a paramount concern for Xemex watches. The thick hands do a great job at telling the time, while the hour hand is easy to pick out due to it being a nice large arrow. Inside the watch is a Valjoux 7750 automatic mechanical movement performing in its full glory.
A Xemex XE 5000 Sun is available right now on eBay for about a quarter of the retail price. It is worth checking out, along with the all Xemex watches.
See Xemex watches on eBay here.
See Xemex watches on Amazon here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
DeWitt Shines In The Glow Of Watch Dealer Shapur In San Francisco
Posted on May 12, 2008
Filed Under DeWitt, General, Watch Art, Watch Buying, Watch Experiences, Watches | Leave a Comment
Thursday was a nice day in San Francisco, and I was excited about being invited to meet with Mr. Pierre Halimi Lachorlotte at Shapur here in San Francisco. Pierre is the General Manager of DeWitt watches here in America, which is a humble title for President of North American Operations. Another reason I was excited was the opportunity to see Shapur’s new and larger retail location, which just happened to be across the street from its previous location. I recall walking by the high-end watch shop often, gazing longingly into the windows, and always being encountered by a friendly associate upon entering - regardless of my attire.
Shapur’s new space is divided between two floors, and they have now added more brands to their showroom. Adding more soon as I understand. I would suggest that Shapur’s major competitor in San Francisco is Shreve & Co., a fight Shapur is winning in my opinion based upon selection, atmosphere, and employee amicability (though they do carry different brands).
As I walked upstairs that day I was immediately greeted by Pierre. I am not at the point where I can afford a DeWitt watch (in fact I might never be at that point), but that didn’t stop them from treating me like a valued client. My enthusiasm for talking about watches was enough, and for that I was genuinely touched. My typical experience with high end watch dealers consists of them briefly acknowledging me, and faster still dismissing me as a non-sale for the observable future. That day was different, and I wanted to make the most of it.
Shapur and DeWitt treated me fondly, as an colleague almost. My time there was precious, and a major reason for my visit was the DeWitt WX-1 Concept watch. The $650,000 timepiece creation that materialized a few months ago. The watch deserves a full length article alone, which it will receive in the next several days. Suffice to say, I had my time with novel watch, and there is much to say about it. The majority of its charm and intrigue exist on a far deeper level than its Jules Verne inspired spaceship looks.
It may seem odd how I place emphasis on my treatment by the watch retailer and company, but it is important to place it in perspective. We are talking about timepieces which on the low end are roughly $20,000. On the high end… well I already mentioned the price of the WX-1 watch. Compare that with how you are treated at an expensive car dealer. Are you given the time of day? DeWitt has watches that cost an equal amount to a brand new Lamborghini or Ferrari, and not merely the “entry-level” models. It would be no surprise, even expected, for DeWitt to treat any non-potential customer, as so many other pretentious companies do. Though this was not the case as I have mentioned, and this attitude is not the status quo for the industry. I cannot commend them enough for their maturity, and foresight that true public relations is with the entire interest public, and not merely an ultra limited demographic.
I have precious few minutes to spend at the meeting at Shapur due to an appointment back at the office, so I wanted to make the most of it. While Mr. Halimi attended to other guests, I took notice of the other DeWitt watches presented. Chronographs, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons (or combinations thereof), where among the offerings. Also on display were the new DeWitt Tourbillon Force Constant and Night Chronograph in Rose Gold (wonderful for its “propeller” seconds subdial). The 15 or so watches represented a significant portion of the DeWitt watches that come to America each year. The brand typically produces about 1000 examples of its watches annually, most of which are not US bound. This was a rare opportunity to become acquainted with the brand by sampling so much of it.
No other watch brand I know of resembles the unique looks of DeWitt. Frankly, it is hard to copy them, though I am sure many have tried. The construction and time involved in making their watches is intense. As I admire a perpetual calendar model I notice the moon on the moonphase indicator looks like a pearl, underneath a darker pearl layer, set against a lustrous painting meant to resemble stars. The effect is nice, classy, and very difficult to reproduce. Materials on these watches blend well, and the squared alternating material pattern on the bezels (an iconic DeWitt look) is set together so well. Having handled enough watches, I can tell the quality of these watches is more than just the raw materials put into them. A deep sense of craftsman-like affection is apparent in the perfect fit and finish of each watch. Perhaps it is a shame that one must invest this kind of money to get a item that is put together so well, but I am relieved that in this world of mass production and disposable goods, such things still exist that are put together by hand, with skill and knowledge accumulated in over two centuries of practice.
The young associate at Shapur enthusiastically discusses the DeWitt watches, and how they sell. He mentions the fact that many younger buyers are drawn to the DeWitt pieces. This fact does not surprise me, save for the reality that DeWitt watches are hard to come by, and you have to actively look for them. What I means is that most DeWitt buyers learn about them through investigation and discovery. You’d have to be looking at a dedicated watch magazine to know about DeWitt, or be lucky enough to visit one of the rare locations that carry them. Otherwise, the uninitiated consider something like Rolex, when the opportunity presents itself to buy a nice watch. Mr. Halimi of DeWitt is particularly proud of the fact that DeWitt buyers are watch lovers, learning about the brand, and making a conscious decision to acquire a DeWitt after considering the alternatives (at least from a price perspective). This is certainly not how an average business person would respond, and I am comforted by the fact that DeWitt, is not an average business. For it if was, my impression is that the watches would unfortunately not be the same (because quality and profitability are typically not in accord); another reason I am so drawn to the watch industry.
I will go back to Shapur - more often now most likely at their enhanced location. Their new shop is a nice place to look at nice watches, and they are a friendly conglomeration of family and dedicated employees. I am sure I will make an excellent customer once I am able to make the occasional investment in their goods.
You can find DeWitt, among other beautiful watch brands at:
Shapur Mozaffarian
272 Post St.
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 392-1200
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
Patek Philippe - The Complication Of Time
Posted on May 10, 2008
Filed Under New Watches, Patek Philippe | Leave a Comment
When it comes to grand complications, there are very few watch makers that can raise the bar quite like Patek Philippe. Yet, what really sets them apart is their ability to create pieces with timeless appeal that can actually be worn by their owners. For example, the new MECCANICO dG from those masters of time de GRISOGONO, is an incredibly complicated timepiece, but is it really practical? One would suggest not. Not to detract in any way from the MECCANICO dG, it has been designed for a specific purpose and is certainly a milestone achievement in watch-making, but it is not a watch that can be handed down through the generations.
When you consider Patek Philippe’s rich history of watch-making, it is not hard to understand how they manage to continually exceed the expectations of their clients. Whilst it may not be common knowledge, Patek Philippe is the creator of one of the most complicated mechanical watch ever made, the Calibre 89, created for the 150th anniversary of the company in 1989. It holds 33 complications, including the date of Easter, a thermometer, time of sunrise, equation of time (which is the difference, over the course of a year, between time as read from a sundial and a clock), sidereal time (the measure of the position of the Earth in its rotation around its axis), and many other indicators. The Calibre 89 is also able to add a day to February for leap years while leaving out the extra day for every 100 year interval.
Whilst slightly less complicated, Patek Philippe’s new offering holds true to the brand’s history of innovation and precision. Five years in the making, the new grand complication, Ref. 5207, comes in platinum and features a minute repeater, tourbillon and instant perpetual calendar with original windows, for which two patents are pending. The instant changing of all the date displays is a supplementary complication comprising 212 interacting components. This is one of the brand’s most complicated wristwatches to date, and only a few will be produced each year.
In a timepiece such as this, the specifications speak for themselves:
|
Movement |
Hand-wound, R TO 27 PS QI calibre, minute repeater with tourbillon escapement, COSC-certified, Poinçon de Genève |
|
Functions |
Hours, minutes, small seconds, instant perpetual calendar in windows (day, date, month, leap-year, day/night indicator) and moon phases |
|
Case |
950 platinum, 41 mm, set with a pure Top Wesselton diamond (0.02 ct) |
|
Dial |
950 platinum hands and applied hour-markers |
|
Bracelet/Strap |
Matt chocolate brown, hand-sewn, square-scaled alligator with 950 platinum folding clasp |
So what can you expect? An incredibly well-made timepiece that will retain its classic styling for generations to come and will be the envy of all. You can also expect it to be incredibly difficult to get your hands on one. Just the way it should be.
Written by Tom Mulraney Ablogtoread.com, thewatchlounge.com
Nivrel Sea Series Diving Watch Makes Sense For Any Collection: Coming in Red, Yellow, And Blue Trim
Posted on May 10, 2008
Filed Under Dive Watches, Nivrel, Watch Buying, Watches | Leave a Comment
It is my firm conviction that each watch collection must have at least one classic diving watch. I am not just talking about a timepiece with a 100 meter or more water resistance, I am talking about that look, with the three link metal bracelet, rotating bezel, and large and bright hour indicator dial. In other words, a Rolex Submariner ‘homage’ watch. It is ok, there are few watches that deserve such an homage, the classic Rolex diving watch is one of them. Otherwise, if you don’t have a watch of this ilk in your possession, you aren’t only going to feel left out, but you’ll be missing out on a phenomenon of watch ownership where one style of watch, really seems to fit perfectly in every occasion and for all purposes.
To satisfy that end, you have literally hundreds of options, within a range of style, quality, and function. On the low end are $50 Casio watches that to an extent give you a taste of the look. On the high end are fine watch makers like Blancpain who can put even Rolex’s high prices to shame. Then there are those excellent sub $1000 choices of which there are many, and today I present you with yet another option from the likes of German watch powerhouses of Marcello C., Stowa, Limes, and now Nivrel.
Nivrel watches have a good deal of merits, but I will save such praise for another time, my focus now is on the “Sea” series of diving watches. Of which are the Red Sea, South Sea, and Deep Sea; which accordingly have red, yellow, and blue trim. By this I mean that the tips of the hands are specially colored along with the model name, and the first fifteen minutes on the rotating bezel scale. The Nivrel Red Sea and South Sea watches only differ in color, while the Nivrel Deep Sea has a deeper depth rating of 1000 meters rather than 300 meters for the other two. Inside each of the watch you will find a familiar ETA 2824-2 automatic Swiss movement, and a look enhanced by a half century of refinement.
Other than the color modifications, the rest of the watch is a rather strict adaptation of the Submariner style of diving instrument. Which is not bad thing. Other makers refine the look to best represent their individual brands, while Nivrel took the approach of adding a dash of color. What is interesting is that other watches in the Nivrel line up are totally unique to the brand, so it must say something about the classic diving watch look that encouraged Nivrel to make such a “faithful” adaptation.
At 42mm in width, and retaining all the other standard measurements, this is a great watch to enhance any collection, whether you have and classic diving watches or not. Years of proven utility and quality have made watch such as this a essential for any watch lover. Prices are very fair for what you get at between $650-$1000 depending on the source. Some of these watches are still in production, while others are not. So you are bound to find a great example.
See Nivrel watches on eBay here.
See Nivrel watches on Amazon here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
Limited Edition Formex DS 2000 Chronograph Makes Perfect ‘Shop Watch’
Posted on May 9, 2008
Filed Under Formex, Watch Buying, Watches, eBay | Leave a Comment
I’ve talked about Formex watches before, but this model is my favorite. This is the limited edition Formex DS 2000, which means it has a Valjoux 7750 movement and a nice black rotating bezel (as opposed to the silver colored version of the non limited edition quartz model). This handsome technical watch is from a maker of decidedly race inspired timepieces. Built with their customary shock absorber protection device. The watches can usually take some brutal movement and forces.
Though one thing I cannot figure out, and perhaps some one can inform me. Why is it that each Formex watch is a “Formex 4 Speed.” Yes that sounds pretty cool, but watches don’t have speeds, I am not sure what each Formex watch has 4 of, and 4 speed cars are very… 30 years ago. Regardless, it still have a nice ring to it. Otherwise, you will be impressed by the interesting watch that Formex has to offer. Most of the watches come in both mechanical and quartz movements as well.
One of the features you will appreciate on this watch is the “bullshead” design of the pushers. This just means that the crown and chronograph pushers are placed on top of the watch rather than the side. For some people, this is a more convenient way of operating a chronograph. The idea is to emulate a traditional stop watch.
Formex prides themselves on rugged construction, and the DS 2000 does not disappoint. They throw in a high quality case, along with extra straps, and tools. Tell me you don’t see this watch fitting in perfectly with a home based garage or mechanic shop. To me, it just screams, “wear me and grab a wrench (not wench).” Perhaps not scream, but overtly suggest.
Formex does a good job with releasing new watches and keeping the line fresh. They have a very unique look that appeals to many watch lovers, among those not typically interest in adorning a high-class timepiece. Right now a limited edition Formex DS 2000 is being offered on eBay for a very low price. Check it out.
See Formex DS 2000 watches on eBay here.
See all Formex watches on eBay here.
See Formex watches on eBay here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
New Jorg Hysek X-Ray Perpetual Calendar Leaves Me Luke Warm
Posted on May 8, 2008
Filed Under General, Jorg Hysek, New Watches, Watch Style, Watches | Leave a Comment
In the watch making world, Jorg Hysek is a bit of a celebrity, having a large number of famous watches under his design belt. Notable are the Tiffany & Co. Streamerica and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. A few years ago he started his own brand (aptly named), with a number of novel watch designs (along with pens). The Abyss model is probably the most popular watch from the Jorg Hysek, but there are also other models such as the X-Ray.
Defining Hysek’s style is tough. They are certainly futuristic and technical, but embody a certain traditional element making them more of an avant garde watch with modern elements, rather than a “vision of the future.” The newest model is the X-Ray Perpetual Calendar. Which basically is the X-Ray with a perpetual calendar module made by Soprod, placed on top of a base ETA automatic (probably a 2894). A hardy mechanism, with useful functionality. The watch is also very large, making it more like a cuff, rather than mere watch at 51mm x 41mm. This however is not freakishly large as some might think. Further, this limited edition gold watch is limited to only 30 pieces, but steel versions are likely to be available as well.
So why am I lukewarm about this watch? Well it just doesn’t do the Jorg Hysek legacy justice. Most of the watch looks good, just not the new parts. The X-Ray has been around for a while, but the integration of the perpetual calendar looks rushed, not though out well. The beauty of these watches was the multitude of lines but the lack of clutter. The semi-skeleton look along with all the information for the subdials gives me a headache to look at. I would not want to wear this watch often. There is nothing clever, or unique about it either. The rest of the watch looks great. Fascinating clasp design, attractive lines, and then the face just seems to fall apart in my opinion.
For example, look at the circular subdials. Where else is there anything on the watch that compliments that? The only other circles are on the clasp (the holes), and they don’t really go together. Then you have these many lines on the face of the watch, the harsh contract with the circles, causing the eyes to wonder and doubt their symmetrical significance. I could spend a lot of time thinking about what I don’t appreciate about this watch, but that would do an injustice to the otherwise venerable X-Ray line (devoid of these malities).
See Jorg Hysek watches on eBay here.
See Jorg Hysek watches on Amazon here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com